Paris

Who isn't in France during the summer? It's an essential a stop as Capri. Many go just to visit the perfume mecca of the world -- and they will not be disappointed. We've read all the 'Paris perfume pilgrimage' ideas online, and visited them all. There are many stores with purely niche perfumes, like:

Sens Unique -- in the Marais [by St Paul metro, land of incredible take-away falafel sandwiches at L'As du fallafel], there is a tiny, white walled shop that features Pierre Guillaume/Parfumerie Generale, for one. Try his light garden scent '16 Jardins de Kérylos'.

Liquides -- this is a small store near the incredible, top notch cafe Paris New York, near the sadly much overrated Jacques Genin in the 3ème [ie Filles du Calvaire Metro]. Be sure to try the Edgar Allen Poe perfume 'Nevermore' by Frapin. It also has the unique and hard to find 'L'Etrog' by Arquiste, which smells like the bitter, odd ancient lemons that are on Jewish passover plates.

Parfums et senteurs du pays basque [in the Marais] is another option if you like to try dozens and dozens of handmade, more etsy-type quality scents.

Stores that feature a particular brand are equally great -- especially the large, darkly lit, purple Serge Lutens store. Many of his scents are very famous. It is located in a lovely windy garden at the Palais Royal a bit away from the Louvre hustle and noise. It's a very transporting location, and going on a cool, dark, windy day only make it a better experience. You may have to ring the bell even if the store should be open.

It's a good idea to go to the big, busy Sephora at the Champs-Elysées and try all Serge Lutens perfumes before going to his own store. That way, you know what you want to smell again and have a passing familiarity with it all. We like to be armed with a question about a particular scent when we enter any perfume shop. Be sure to try the famous red liquid [be careful] rosey La fille de Berlin, Feminite du Bois [woody], and the deep rose Sa Majeste La Rose.

IUNX is another great perfume store. We sought out the less seen location at the Luxembourg Gardens [at the top of it], but you can buy/smell it at their store in a hotel on the luxury St Honoré street near the Louvre. Try 'No. 04 L'Eau Azteque', which is a nice light scent -- on some it smells like white peaches.